

Neither did I know how the trajectory of tofu related to fake-meat products like textured vegetable protein, or TVP, which I had seen advertised years earlier in Vegetarian Times or how these vegetarian incarnations of the soybean related to its other role in American life as a farm commodity that sustained our system of factory farming. As a vegetarian of twenty years at that point, and as somebody who had actually assisted in making tofu at an honest-to-god commune, I had only the vaguest of ideas. 1928 78 5 William Morse in Dairen, Manchuria, 1930 84 vii This content downloaded from 128.111.121.42 on Mon, 18:42:22 UTC All use subject to viii I L LU S T R AT I O N S 6 The Ford Industrialized Barn exhibit at the 1934 Century of Progress World’s Fair in Chicago 87 7 Interior of the Industrialized Barn 88 8 Advertisement for Adventist food products from Madison Foods, 1940 111 9 Technique for sprouting soybeans 120 10 “It was funny because it was unlikely” 133 11 Making tofu at the Tule Lake Camp, 1945 144 12 Plenty agricultural technician Darryl Jordan talks to Mayan farmers 209 13 William Shurtleff and Akiko Aoyagi embarking on the Tofu and Miso Tour, 1976 217 14 Tote board at Chicago Board of Trade 227 15 Northern Soy Deli, 1979 234 16 Jofu ad in the New York Times, 1987 238 This content downloaded from 128.111.121.42 on Mon, 18:42:22 UTC All use subject to Acknowledgments This project began many years ago with a conversation on a New York subway car with my friend and fellow Rutgers graduate student Eric Barry about when-historically speaking-tofu became a thing in the United States. 1910 30 2 Soybean varieties 37 3 Yamei Kin, 1912 57 4 Combine harvesting Manchu soybeans in Illinois, ca. 1918, representing aspirational possibilities more than actual commercial products at the time 42 6.1 By 1958, more than a billion pounds of soybean oil went into margarine versus 145 million pounds of cottonseed oil 162 6.2 The spread of soybean cultivars named after Confederate generals 164 7.1 The shift to capital-intensive solvent extraction encouraged economies of scale 190 7.2 Illustration of meat fabrication from 1975 brochure for schoolchildren 195 9.1 Diagram of a variant of the “gene gun” 249 photos 1 Frank N. This content downloaded from 128.111.121.42 on Mon, 18:42:08 UTC All use subject to Contents List of Illustrations vii Acknowledgments ix Introduction: Destined to Succeed? 1 Crossing Oceans 15 2 Jumping the Gun 41 3 Taking Root 62 4 Exploring All Avenues 86 5 Answering the Call 118 6 Pushing the Boundaries 7 Thriving in the Shade 146 177 8 Rising into View 200 9 Cresting the Peak 228 Epilogue: Here to Stay? Notes 256 273 Select Bibliography Index 1 333 339 This content downloaded from 128.111.121.42 on Mon, 18:42:15 UTC All use subject to This content downloaded from 128.111.121.42 on Mon, 18:42:15 UTC All use subject to Illustrations figures 0.1 Soybean acreage in America, 1909–2000, with three graphs highlighting key moments of growth 8 0.2 Glidden’s fractionation of the soybean 11 2.1 The uses of the soybean, ca.

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It is acid free and meets the minimum requirements of the American National Standard for Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials Z39.48-1992. Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 The paper used in the print publication is recycled and contains 30 percent postconsumer waste. British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data is available. | Soyfoods-United States-History-20th century. paper) | ISBN 9780700626359 (ebook) Subjects: LCSH: Soybean-United States-History-20th century. Description: Lawrence, Kansas : University Press of Kansas, | Series: CultureAmerica | Includes bibliographical references and index. Title: Magic bean : the rise of soy in America / Matthew Roth. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Roth, Matthew (Matthew David), 1970– author.
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Deloria Series Editors Karal Ann Marling Editor Emerita This content downloaded from 128.111.121.42 on Mon, 18:42:08 UTC All use subject to MAGIC BEAN THE RISE OF SOY IN AMERICA MATTHEW ROTH university press of kansas This content downloaded from 128.111.121.42 on Mon, 18:42:08 UTC All use subject to © 2018 by the University Press of Kansas All rights reserved Published by the University Press of Kansas (Lawrence, Kansas 66045), which was organized by the Kansas Board of Regents and is operated and funded by Emporia State University, Fort Hays State University, Kansas State University, Pittsburg State University, the University of Kansas, and Wichita State University. This content downloaded from 128.111.121.42 on Mon, 18:42:08 UTC All use subject to Magic Bean This content downloaded from 128.111.121.42 on Mon, 18:42:08 UTC All use subject to CultureAmerica Erika Doss Philip J.
